Thursday, February 4, 2010

It's Miller (Union) Time

Like everyone else in this city, for months the Affordable Foodie has been dying to check out Miller Union, the new farm-to-table restaurant in West Midtown. We finally got our chance earlier this week when we dined with four close friends. Even after sampling nearly half the menu (two apps, a cheese plate, three entrees and three desserts), we can't wait to return to the cozy, charming dining room and see what other Southern-inspired, seasonally fresh dishes chef Steven Satterfield has up his sleeve. We fell in love with Miller Union the second we walked through the door. As we found our seats in one of the multiple dining nooks, one friend said she felt like we were sitting down to dinner in someone's home. The space has a rustic farmhouse vibe but also feels very contemporary.

Chef Satterfield adjusts the menu weekly, if not daily, based on the week's harvest. Among our favorite dishes that we sampled during our visit were the grit fritters with country ham and Thomasville Tomme cow's milk cheese from Sweet Grass Dairy out of Thomasville, Ga. Reminiscent of the Arancini appetizer at Cakes & Ale in Decatur, these hot little babies are great for sharing among a group and really get your taste buds humming at the beginning of the meal. We also enjoyed a plate of perfectly fried oysters served with a pepper-infused mignonette dipping sauce.

A couple of the entrees we tasted were not without flaws. The roasted potatoes served alongside a fillet of grilled mountain trout were noticeably undercooked, and the beer braised pork was heavy on the salt. However, the pan-seared flounder with roasted cauliflower, radicchio and fried capers blew our minds. The dish is served without sauce and is somehow simultaneously light, flavorful and satisfying.

We're dessert people at AF, meaning we often ask to see the dessert menu at the beginning of our meal so we can order accordingly. Follow our lead and plan to order Miller Union's flourless chocolate cake served with fresh whipped cream. This dense slice of chocolate cake is different from the usual gooey version we've come to expect at other restaurants and a nice change of pace. A flat, galette-style pear tart with a phyllo crust comes with sugar and spice ice cream - it's a solid choice if you prefer fruity desserts.

Among the cocktails, the Miller Thyme made with Miller's gin (the smoothest we've ever tasted), lemon juice and thyme syrup is a stand out. We also recommend the Quivira Zinfandel out of Dry Creek Valley, Ca. One of our friends almost died when she saw this bottle on the wine list. She visited the vineyard in Sonoma several years ago and had yet to see its wine offered at an Atlanta restaurant.

If you're looking to score a bargain at Miller Union, reserve a spot at the Harvest Dinner. Every Tuesday night, Miller Union serves a family-style, prix fixe three-course dinner for $30 per person, not including drinks, tax or gratuity. Seatings with a maximum of 10 people are available at 6 and 8:30 p.m. only, and reservations are required. Grab a group of friends and check it out! If you're wondering exactly what's for dinner that night, the restaurant regularly posts the weekly Harvest Dinner menu online.

We're heading back to Miller Union as soon as possible to try the trio of seasonal herb ice creams (rosemary, thyme and sage). See you on the Westside!

Miller Union
999 Brady Ave.
Atlanta, GA 30318


  1. YUM, can we please go next time I'm in town? Also Cakes & Ale!

  2. Just read that Miller Union is a James Beard Award semi-finalist for best new restaurant!